As mentioned previously, we didn't really sleep the first night we arrived, but ironed our travel-wrinkled clothes and were picked up and taken to the embassy for orientation etc. I got a chance to use my Russian with the driver, and we got to see Dushanbe in the light of day for the first time. Our initial impression - which continues to be the case the more we see - is that it is a much nicer city than we expected. The downtown area has almost a European feel - almost. The streets are all tree-lined and there is a lot of what can be best described as public sculptures - which will make more sense when I can upload pictures. Summer is very hot and dry here - although temperatures are cool in the morning and at night - and also very dusty. Dushanbe is surrounded by mountains, and when the dust isn't too bad you can see some snow on the tops of some of them even now.
Everyone at the embassy was very friendly and welcoming and when I finally got to my office, the whole experience really started feeling like a move rather than a vacation. From my desk I have a decent view of the surrounding hillsides and on clear days, the snowy mountains behind them.
Our first evening here, our social sponsors took us to dinner at a modern-looking Italian restaurant a few blocks from our house. For those of you who think I'm selling out on my first day, I should point out that I've been getting more local fare in the embassy cafeteria - for example, tongue stew on Friday. I think that settles it. Anyway, dinner was good, and when all the lights come on along the streets, Dushanbe is quite pretty.
The second day at the office was equally pleasant and I finally got to start doing some real work - which is very nice after 11 months of training. I wonder how long that will last. At the end of the day, my department even had a little gathering to welcome Stephanie and me and to say so long to my predecessor.
Friday night is where I think the trouble began. We met up with some other embassy folks at the new Hyatt for a BBQ - which was quite good (but unfortunately also where the trouble began - be patient, I'll explain later). There was live music at the Hyatt, including Tajik music that sounded quite a bit like the theme to Borat and a girl who sang exactly, (and by exactly I mean I thought they were playing a recording), like Sheryl Crow. After dinner, we went out to the Irish Pub - a local hangout for expats, which isn't very Irish - and had a few beers and laughs before turning in for the night.
Saturday morning, my stomach was a bit unsettled (trouble), but I chalked it up to the beer, took a couple peptos, and we headed out to explore a bit of our new city. We navigated a nearby bazaar, buying veggies, spices, grains, and nuts (all in Russian I might add), then on the way home, we got the surprise of our lives at the supermarket, which is just a 3 minute walk from our house. They had just about everything - shampoo, toothpaste, yogurt, milk, meat, prepared meals, coffee. We practically didn't need our consumables (although there are some exceptions. I know it was very comforting to Stephanie to have something so familiar and useful so close to home.
We spent the rest of the day unpacking and getting more familiar with the house before hitting the sack. Sunday is when things really went downhill. My unsettled stomach, it turns out, was a full blown case of Tajik Tummy, (think Dehli Belly or Montezuma's Revenge), and it was awful. No amount of over-the-counter medicine seemed to help. Suffice it to say that I spent the whole day on the couch, having to cancel our plans to go on a hike for the day. I can only figure that it was something I ate at the Hyatt since it's the only place Stephanie didn't eat and she's been fine.
Aside from the obvious physical discomfort, my confidence in my iron gut was shaken. I, the one who at sheep's head from a picnic table in Morocco, ants and guinea pig in Ecuador, and street food in India, brought low by a Hyatt in Tajikistan! Who'd have thought?
Fortunately, I had Stephanie to take excellent care of me and by Monday, although not nearly 100% I made it to work. It was a good thing, because if I had stayed home, I would have missed the old man who rode his donkey past me while I was waiting to be picked up. At work, the medical officer was able to give me some medicine and a rehydrating powder (it has to be mixed in water - otherwise it would be something of an oxymoron) that started putting me right rather quickly.
Monday night we attempted to hire a driver to get around more efficiently until we can A) buy a car and B) they fill in the trench in front of our drive way so we can put a car in it. The man who came by was very pleasant and professional and came highly recommended. He must have thought highly of himself too since he asked a rather exorbitant amount. We decided to stick to walking and negotiating with cabs in Russian for the time being. Once Stephanie gets a handle on Tajik, we should be rather well equipped to navigate around the city, but until then, my Russian is holding up better than I expected.
It's Tuesday as I'm writing and I'm now I'm on my second day of 'real work' and am feeling more or less fine - I'll feel better when I can expand my diet beyond bread and bananas. We had an unusual bit of rain today - it wouldn't normally precipitate until fall - which was promptly followed by a dust storm that continues to obscure my view of just about anything outside my window. Hopefully it will rain some more and clear things up later.
Work has been extremely busy, with many meetings, e-mails, things to sign/read/edit/you-name-it-I-do-it, and I've even been able to get out and about a bit, which is a nice part of my job. I should mention that I'm thoroughly enjoying myself- it's nice to be back in the grind (again, that's just two days in.)
We may have found a solution to our home internet access troubles, which would mean - you guessed it - pictures! (and no more blogging on my lunch hour) Until then, I hope everyone is doing well and will stay in touch.
Nick
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